I attended the recent men's collections held during NYFWM and overall, really enjoyed the atmosphere and networking far more than I ever did at the women's shows. While there was some peacocking here and there, and a few dramatic egos seen [can't say I ever saw a female leave a show after being assigned a seat in the back row, GASP!], it was much more civil, calm and engaging, and the men met IRL that I only engaged with through Instagram were even nicer in person than expected. Cheers!
Since I already did trend-specific recaps [for Cotton, here and He Spoke Style, here], just going to focus on the details from a few of the shows, including Public School, Joseph Abboud, Todd Snyder and Siki Im.
One trend that I myself have been a huge fan of IRL is the one that features fringe + tassels. This can be as simple as a subtle tassel detail on a bag... thin fringe on the bottom of a skirt... or go all out and succumb to the full-on 70's + rock that suede fringe coat you've always wanted.
This is the first time that I have been intrigued to follow the street style during Fashion Week(s)/Month for the Fall/Winter collections. In the past, especially last year, you had attention-hungry girls walking around during a blizzard in open toed shoes, bare legs, camisoles and no coats. Now, while we did still see a bit of that this year [only in NYC, of course. shame on you!], for the most part the fashion elite set out to the streets and created beautiful stories through impeccable layering of colors, textures and multiple pieces of outerwear.
And while I still crave the times that photographers didn't just focus on these elite and decided to highlight the lesser knowns that attend the shows in one's OWN clothes [yes, too many influencers and "street style stars" strut in borrowed pieces that are quickly returned], I am happy to see that many of the attention-seekers that treat Lincoln Center and other show neighborhoods like the Grammys [wearing fashion vs. showcasing one's own style] were cut from many roundups.
There are a few ways you can look at presenting a collection during Fashion Week. You can have a "traditional" runway show... you can decide to showcase the clothes in a presentation where models stand there, allowing editors and buyers alike to view each piece a bit more closely... or, you can go the route of Eva Fehren and showcase your collection for what it is... art.
It's not often that you see a presentation that stands out, especially this September where it seemed like nothing coming down the runway was a new idea [if I see one more sheer dress/skirt silhouette with visible high waisted under garments, which wasn't even new last season, I WILL scream]. A woman after my own heart [I have actually pitched this idea a few times over the years, wanting to see something like this], she went the route of displaying her jewels as a gallery.
Pieces of jewelry hanging perfectly in marbled frames, accented by a perfectly placed spotlight that created the most beautiful sparkles. Models, spending hours [and I mean hours] getting their hands and faces perfected by masters, so when it was time to walk behind the white sheet and carefully put their hands and heads through the strategically placed slits, they became the art.
Looking at the images now, there's something about the emphasis on the models' beautiful faces that remind me of the 'hall of heads' in Return to Oz. Without that creepy factor, of course.
Every year there is one single image from backstage that I fall madly in love with when going back into my camera, and this year is undeniably the beauty that is Ola Rudnicka. Her perfect [and I mean perfect] fair complexion, blue eyes, that platinum blonde hair, all complimented by that mustard sweater... I feel like it speaks way more than 1,000 words, no?
The term "the photo doesn't do it justice" really comes in to play when you discuss runway shows. If you are lucky enough to see the clothing up close, whether backstage or from the front row, you see amazing workmanship that is sometimes jaw dropping. Truly. And then you go online later in the day to see the collection again and it's not even close to that initial feeling you had.
That is not the case with the Dolce & Gabbana Fall Collection. The images are breathtaking and even behind the camera lens, you can see there are spectacular pieces walking towards you. I cannot fathom what they must have looked like up close and personal, especially that teal leather embroidered/bedazzled jewel-tone glove and clutch combo [heart skips a beat].
It's no surprise that I'm just as in love with this season's Edun presentation as I was with last September's. The mixing of textures, layering of fabric and woven details were still the standout on each and every model that walked by. Even the star-packed front row couldn't divert my eyes from what was being showcased before me. And, of course, the mission of the brand to to promote trade in Africa is the best kind of inspiration that can grace NYFW.
This is just the second collection, guys. Good things are going to keep coming...